Octopus Overlords

I'm wonder if your pvc is just hosed as in somebody previously sanded a fitting on the inside or something? In my experience PVC almost stays together without any glue even. Maybe there's a lengthwise fine crack you're not seeing from the pressure you applied when you cut the pvc to length? Helps to have the cut be very squared off and perpendicular too!

My brother and I once spent hours trying to figure why a valve wasn't working on a plumbing project. It turned out that the fine shavings from the cut off saw we used to cut the pvc was clogging the aerators on all the faucets, and the valve was perfectly fine. Really dumb! I think we finally figure that the toilet was getting water, but the sinks weren't and that had to be it. So lesson learned is to use the proper tool for the job.

em2nought wrote: ↑Sat Jan 27, 2024 10:22 pm I'm wonder if your pvc is just hosed as in somebody previously sanded a fitting on the inside or something? In my experience PVC almost stays together without any glue even. Maybe there's a lengthwise fine crack you're not seeing from the pressure you applied when you cut the pvc to length? Helps to have the cut be very squared off and perpendicular too!

My brother and I once spent hours trying to figure why a valve wasn't working on a plumbing project. It turned out that the fine shavings from the cut off saw we used to cut the pvc was clogging the aerators on all the faucets, and the valve was perfectly fine. Really dumb! I think we finally figure that the toilet was getting water, but the sinks weren't and that had to be it. So lesson learned is to use the proper tool for the job.

I think I may have a similar issue with the extremely low flow in my kitchen sink faucet. I even replaced the entire faucet thinking that was the problem, and it was then that I noticed that the water shutoff valve for hot or cold was broken. Couldn't shut the water off for that temp. And it makes me wonder if the gasket in the shutoff valve either disentegrated, or came out, and is now clogging up the works somewhere between there and the faucet. But that wouldn't explain the low flow on both the hot AND the cold (although it is noticeably lower flow on the temp where the shutoff valve is not working).

Sounds like a plumber job...that's a lot of assumptions, and if true, cutting, etc. Also sounds like one of those jobs that I start, thinking I can fix it, and it quickly spirals into something I either don't have the tools for, leads to a bunch of other related issues I wasn't prepared to tackle, or just simply beyond my means.

Carpet_pissr wrote: ↑Sun Jan 28, 2024 1:35 pm

em2nought wrote: ↑Sat Jan 27, 2024 10:22 pm

My brother and I once spent hours trying to figure why a valve wasn't working on a plumbing project. It turned out that the fine shavings from the cut off saw we used to cut the pvc was clogging the aerators on all the faucets, and the valve was perfectly fine.

I think I may have a similar issue with the extremely low flow in my kitchen sink faucet.

Sounds like a plumber job...that's a lot of assumptions, and if true, cutting, etc. Also sounds like one of those jobs that I start, thinking I can fix it, and it quickly spirals into something I either don't have the tools for, leads to a bunch of other related issues I wasn't prepared to tackle, or just simply beyond my means.

Plumbing jobs usually require at least three trips to the hardware store for me. They do seem to snowball into more of a project than you thought. The watermain to our neighborhood was broken a few years ago which let sand into the lines. I had to turn off the valve to my ice maker, disconnect the line, put the line into a bucket and turn the valve back on which blew out some sand that got in that small line. Reassembled and back to working like normal. If you have a strap wrench you might try taking your aerator off the new faucet and then running the water without the aerator attached to clear debris. Alternately you might just need to tie a baggy full of vinegar over the end of your faucet/aerator occasionally to clean corrosion.

From what you say none of those sound like the problem. Did you run some water in the line after removing the old faucet before you attached the new faucet? If it's easy to disconnect that might be what I'd try. Maybe an air hose where you detach the aerator to blow out the faucet after you've detached it from the hoses under the sink in case you've forced some dirt in there just like the old faucet if that was the problem.

Carpet_pissr wrote: ↑Sun Jan 28, 2024 1:35 pm Sounds like a plumber job...that's a lot of assumptions, and if true, cutting, etc. Also sounds like one of those jobs that I start, thinking I can fix it, and it quickly spirals into something I either don't have the tools for, leads to a bunch of other related issues I wasn't prepared to tackle, or just simply beyond my means.

I had a contractor buddy who told me his most favorite jobs were the ones where homeowner's would try to fix something themselves, give up and then call for professional help. Having to first fix what they did wrong (or what they broke) before addressing whatever the main issue was always meant more money.

Smoove_B wrote: ↑Sun Jan 28, 2024 10:14 pm

Carpet_pissr wrote: ↑Sun Jan 28, 2024 1:35 pm Sounds like a plumber job...that's a lot of assumptions, and if true, cutting, etc. Also sounds like one of those jobs that I start, thinking I can fix it, and it quickly spirals into something I either don't have the tools for, leads to a bunch of other related issues I wasn't prepared to tackle, or just simply beyond my means.

I had a contractor buddy who told me his most favorite jobs were the ones where homeowner's would try to fix something themselves, give up and then call for professional help. Having to first fix what they did wrong (or what they broke) before addressing whatever the main issue was always meant more money.

em2nought wrote: ↑Sun Jan 28, 2024 9:51 pm

Carpet_pissr wrote: ↑Sun Jan 28, 2024 1:35 pm

em2nought wrote: ↑Sat Jan 27, 2024 10:22 pm

My brother and I once spent hours trying to figure why a valve wasn't working on a plumbing project. It turned out that the fine shavings from the cut off saw we used to cut the pvc was clogging the aerators on all the faucets, and the valve was perfectly fine.

I think I may have a similar issue with the extremely low flow in my kitchen sink faucet.

Sounds like a plumber job...that's a lot of assumptions, and if true, cutting, etc. Also sounds like one of those jobs that I start, thinking I can fix it, and it quickly spirals into something I either don't have the tools for, leads to a bunch of other related issues I wasn't prepared to tackle, or just simply beyond my means.

Plumbing jobs usually require at least three trips to the hardware store for me. They do seem to snowball into more of a project than you thought. The watermain to our neighborhood was broken a few years ago which let sand into the lines. I had to turn off the valve to my ice maker, disconnect the line, put the line into a bucket and turn the valve back on which blew out some sand that got in that small line. Reassembled and back to working like normal. If you have a strap wrench you might try taking your aerator off the new faucet and then running the water without the aerator attached to clear debris. Alternately you might just need to tie a baggy full of vinegar over the end of your faucet/aerator occasionally to clean corrosion.

From what you say none of those sound like the problem. Did you run some water in the line after removing the old faucet before you attached the new faucet? If it's easy to disconnect that might be what I'd try. Maybe an air hose where you detach the aerator to blow out the faucet after you've detached it from the hoses under the sink in case you've forced some dirt in there just like the old faucet if that was the problem.

Oh my. So much in there, thanks! Including the ice maker issue (also had a local water main problem a year ago and ice maker/fridge water has not worked since).

Bathroom remodel started today. They are currently stripping the flooring which doesn't sound like it's going well. Linoleum over concrete and apparently it's glued down using some strong stuff as the guy is using a pneumatic chisel and has, so far, broken two bits getting it up.

Unfortunately, since this happened sooner than we were originally expecting, and right on the heels of knee surgery, I wasn't able to prep as well (moving washer & dryer out as well as toilet and sink/vanity) so I'm going to have to pay a little extra for that.

We're on week two of our basement re-finishing. They've made a ton of progress, but still lots to go. The worst was the weekend before they started when I had to carry everything either up to the main floor or out to the alley (except for the big furniture items that they'll shift around as needed).

Does anyone know anything about furnace filters?

I installed a new system last year and the filter in the unit now is 20 x 25 x 4.375. Home Depot only carries 20 x 25 x 4.0. Amazon will sell me one that is 20 x 25 x 4.5, but the current one is already tight, so I really can't go that route. Any idea if just sticking with the 4" one will be a problem?

stessier wrote: ↑Thu Apr 04, 2024 5:50 pm Does anyone know anything about furnace filters?

I installed a new system last year and the filter in the unit now is 20 x 25 x 4.375. Home Depot only carries 20 x 25 x 4.0. Amazon will sell me one that is 20 x 25 x 4.5, but the current one is already tight, so I really can't go that route. Any idea if just sticking with the 4" one will be a problem?

Define ‘already tight’. Did you have to cram it in? I would not go with the 4.0, sounds like that would crush it trying to get it to fit (ask me how I know).
Check the book that came with furnace - they will often list recommended filters. Or just call the installer.

For years I always bought a filter that would fit over the top. I never put it in the slot (i.e. cram it in)
But I'm olde and senile and it's 2:15AM.

stessier wrote: ↑Thu Apr 04, 2024 5:50 pm Does anyone know anything about furnace filters?

I installed a new system last year and the filter in the unit now is 20 x 25 x 4.375. Home Depot only carries 20 x 25 x 4.0. Amazon will sell me one that is 20 x 25 x 4.5, but the current one is already tight, so I really can't go that route. Any idea if just sticking with the 4" one will be a problem?

I know my old filter had a washable electronic filter that fit over it and when they replaced my furnace they did not integrate the old features. The electronic filter doesn't work and they threw away the washable filter when they put in a new one. My new filter is now larger to fit the space but it is also too small. I don't worry about it. My house is crazy dusty anyway. I'm finally vacuuming the whole house once a week and I'm consistently amazed at how much dirt and dust I'm still removing on a once a week basis all these months later. I have to empty Wind Tunnel vacuum cleaner twice every vacuuming for my small house. One day it will have sucked enough to slow down. One day...

I'm finally up and moving and strong enough to do real upkeep. So Home Depot is nickel and diming me to death but I've replaced a shower head (way more effort than it had a right to be), two faucets, and then innards for toilet. A screw up on the second faucet required a plumber to come in and replace a pipe and snake a drain after my snaking of a drain didn't unclog it and burst a pipe. Oddly enough, the pipe to the wall the I called a plumber to replace, turned out to be something I could have done easily, but I feared the worse at that point. If I damaged the pipe to wall, then I'd have to dig into the wall to go further, and possibly need real pipe fitting at that point, and that was a risk in ignorance I didn't want to take.

Room by room, I'm cleaning and purging. Eventually, I'll get to needing electrical work done. At that point, it will be time to bring a professional. It's also time to think about floor work and replacing blinds.

stessier wrote: ↑Thu Apr 04, 2024 5:50 pm Does anyone know anything about furnace filters?

I installed a new system last year and the filter in the unit now is 20 x 25 x 4.375. Home Depot only carries 20 x 25 x 4.0. Amazon will sell me one that is 20 x 25 x 4.5, but the current one is already tight, so I really can't go that route. Any idea if just sticking with the 4" one will be a problem?

I have nonstandard filters, since I have Geothermal furnaces, we have two, don't ask, we did an addition and added a second unit instead of one big one. But anyway, I use this site to buy my filters, they have always sent them to me quick, and they work well.
https://www.airfiltersunlimited.com/

I don't really see anything in the odd size, but if you message them, they might be able to help you.

I second the advice to see if you can find the manual.

As part of our recently completed total overhaul of the basement, I had them replace all of the canned lighting in the basement ceiling with LED lights. They look much nicer given that they're flush with the ceiling and don't have bulbs with gaps and all that. They showed me how easy it was to do, so I decided to do it with the rest of the canned lights in the house (8 upstairs, 10 in the kitchen - they really liked canned lights in the kitchen). It was super easy. Hardest part was disconnecting the springs that held the old plastic pieces in place (got some scratched up knuckles from that), plus two of the cans in our bedroom didn't have torsion spring clips for some reason, so I had to swap out the torsion clips for friction on those lights. Couple of hours of work overall, under $200 for all the lights, and it looks great and the lighting quality is improved. Highly recommended as a quick and easy project if you have canned lights.

Now that our bathroom remodel is "done" I should get some pics of the finished product.

*Done.

They never rehung the bathroom door. We rehung it ourselves but with the heated floor and new tile, the level of the floor came up enough that the door scrapes.
I'll need to shave about an eighth of an inch off the bottom and rehang it.

We also need to hang the new bathroom mirror since they didn't do that.

Also, it's been two and a half weeks since "completion" and I haven't heard a word from the contractor nor have they sent me the final bill. It should only be a couple hundred bucks but until they send it, I have to be nervous about the final total.

stessier wrote: ↑Thu Apr 04, 2024 5:50 pm Does anyone know anything about furnace filters?

I installed a new system last year and the filter in the unit now is 20 x 25 x 4.375. Home Depot only carries 20 x 25 x 4.0. Amazon will sell me one that is 20 x 25 x 4.5, but the current one is already tight, so I really can't go that route. Any idea if just sticking with the 4" one will be a problem?

Pay attention to the actual filter dimensions, and you should be okay. For example, this Home Depot Honeywell 20 x 25 x 4 Pleated Furnace Air Filter FPR 8, MERV 8 (2-Pack) specifies the actual dimensions as follows:

HomeDepot.com wrote:

• Air filter captures dust, mold, pollen, and smoke
• More efficient than fiberglass filters and lasts up to 12 months
• MERV 8 filter actual dimensions are 19.75 x 24.88 x 4.38 (in.)

ImLawBoy wrote: ↑Fri Apr 05, 2024 10:58 am As part of our recently completed total overhaul of the basement, I had them replace all of the canned lighting in the basement ceiling with LED lights. They look much nicer given that they're flush with the ceiling and don't have bulbs with gaps and all that. They showed me how easy it was to do, so I decided to do it with the rest of the canned lights in the house (8 upstairs, 10 in the kitchen - they really liked canned lights in the kitchen). It was super easy. Hardest part was disconnecting the springs that held the old plastic pieces in place (got some scratched up knuckles from that), plus two of the cans in our bedroom didn't have torsion spring clips for some reason, so I had to swap out the torsion clips for friction on those lights. Couple of hours of work overall, under $200 for all the lights, and it looks great and the lighting quality is improved. Highly recommended as a quick and easy project if you have canned lights.

Those cans suck in so many ways, but the LED inserts for them are great. I installed the LED can inserts in a friend's rental home several years ago. Picked up the LED inserts on a great clearance deal. No more gaps, no more heat from the attic, no more hot spotlight bulbs, reduced energy use, the LEDs are great. Very easy to do.

What am I missing? Why not just replace the bulbs themselves with LED bulbs instead of the whole unit?

One of the first things I did when I moved into our current house was replace all bulbs with LED. Since it was 10+ years ago, it cost a lot (several hundred bucks IIRC) , but paid for itself within a few months.

Carpet_pissr wrote:What am I missing? Why not just replace the bulbs themselves with LED bulbs instead of the whole unit?

Just guessing because I don't know his exact lights...

Most cans with bulbs look like a cylinder with a separate bulb inside. A lot of LED units are just a flat lens that sits flush with the ceiling giving the light a much cleaner look. It's totally a cosmetic thing, the smooth LED units do look nicer.

LEDs get hot

Daehawk wrote: ↑Sat Apr 06, 2024 1:50 pmLEDs get hot

Only from a technical perspective. They produce far less actual heat than other types of bulbs, and a cool enough to touch under full power.

The inserts close all the gaps.

Our little earthquake opened a crack in my waterheater. I'm going tankless, which will be cheap, but I also need a subpanel added, which won't be.

Default wrote: ↑Sat Apr 06, 2024 9:44 pm Our little earthquake opened a crack in my waterheater. I'm going tankless, which will be cheap, but I also need a subpanel added, which won't be.

...and you'll probably need thicker wiring to be installed.

Roto Rooter will be here Monday with the expensive tools to find where the leak under my driveway is coming from.

Isgrimnur wrote: ↑Sat Apr 06, 2024 10:19 pm Roto Rooter will be here Monday with the expensive tools to find where the leak under my driveway is coming from.

It's coming from under the driveway.

$750, please.

Blackhawk wrote: ↑Sat Apr 06, 2024 10:59 pm

Isgrimnur wrote: ↑Sat Apr 06, 2024 10:19 pm Roto Rooter will be here Monday with the expensive tools to find where the leak under my driveway is coming from.

It's coming from under the driveway.

$750, please.

You must still be stuck in the 1990s.

I rent. I don't see the maintenance bills.

My Ryobi electric mower I've had less than 2 years suddenly won't start. Not the battery, as I put a full battery in and the self-propel works and the lights come on. Just won't start.

The internet tells me a dozen things to check, but I've checked everything. Handle's in the locked position, underside has no debris, battery contacts are clean, key's in place. I'm baffled. What's weird is it started, I ran it for five minutes or so, then stopped it to pick something up. It hasn't started since.

At this point I guess I'm going to have to hit the repair shop, as it's about $500 to replace. So frustrating.

Anonymous Bosch wrote: ↑Fri Apr 05, 2024 11:33 am

stessier wrote: ↑Thu Apr 04, 2024 5:50 pm Does anyone know anything about furnace filters?

I installed a new system last year and the filter in the unit now is 20 x 25 x 4.375. Home Depot only carries 20 x 25 x 4.0. Amazon will sell me one that is 20 x 25 x 4.5, but the current one is already tight, so I really can't go that route. Any idea if just sticking with the 4" one will be a problem?

Pay attention to the actual filter dimensions, and you should be okay. For example, this Home Depot Honeywell 20 x 25 x 4 Pleated Furnace Air Filter FPR 8, MERV 8 (2-Pack) specifies the actual dimensions as follows:

HomeDepot.com wrote:

• Air filter captures dust, mold, pollen, and smoke
• More efficient than fiberglass filters and lasts up to 12 months
• MERV 8 filter actual dimensions are 19.75 x 24.88 x 4.38 (in.)

Thank you for this. This was the situation - but it was only on one side of the box and was in much smaller print than the 4" plastered all over the rest of the packaging.

disarm wrote: ↑Sat Apr 06, 2024 11:32 am

Carpet_pissr wrote:What am I missing? Why not just replace the bulbs themselves with LED bulbs instead of the whole unit?

Just guessing because I don't know his exact lights...

Most cans with bulbs look like a cylinder with a separate bulb inside. A lot of LED units are just a flat lens that sits flush with the ceiling giving the light a much cleaner look. It's totally a cosmetic thing, the smooth LED units do look nicer.

Exactly. It just looks so much nicer.

I suppose it depends on how deep they are. Personally, I find not being able to casually see the bulbs is a huge plus (I'm sensitive to 'bright spots' and glare.)

YellowKing wrote: ↑Mon Apr 08, 2024 8:23 am My Ryobi electric mower I've had less than 2 years suddenly won't start. Not the battery, as I put a full battery in and the self-propel works and the lights come on. Just won't start.

The internet tells me a dozen things to check, but I've checked everything. Handle's in the locked position, underside has no debris, battery contacts are clean, key's in place. I'm baffled. What's weird is it started, I ran it for five minutes or so, then stopped it to pick something up. It hasn't started since.

At this point I guess I'm going to have to hit the repair shop, as it's about $500 to replace. So frustrating.

I would call Ryobi, even if it's out of warranty.

This happened during my 3rd year (maybe second) of owning a Greenworks Pro electric mower. It would cut off with a full battery, but I couldn't MAKE it happen...it was off an on.

Called Greenworks, and within about 6 minutes (no kidding) they were about to send me an entirely new mower at no cost. While I was waiting for her to complete the paperwork or whatnot on her end, on hold, I was messing around with the mower and it started, so I declined (I assumed it was a batter issue actually).

I figured out later that the battery would shut down due to heat above X degrees. It's been working fine ever since...I guess that was about 2 summers ago.

Long shot, but they may be willing to work with you.

I bought some paint for the back porch today. Pretty dull, but that's about the extent of my home upkeep ambitions these days. Paint is stupid expensive.

Last fall I hired someone to paint the porch. After a couple of no-shows and a cancellation, they finally power-washed it, and revealed a bunch of rotten wood. I asked for a quote to repair it and they ghosted me. Fine; I don't like working with non-English speakers anyway. I fired them, paid for the power wash, and hired the people who had rebuilt our front porch the year before. They charged me $2,900 to replace the railings and posts and wrap it all in plastic. It's solid and looks spiffy, but the decking, trim, and risers are still unpainted. When they quoted me $800 to do that I decided to do it myself. So today I spent $105 on paint and supplies, and I'll finish the job over the next week. (I have to do some paid work tomorrow and there's spotty rain in the forecast, but the holiday on Monday looks like a chance to at least do the trim, if not the whole job.)

My house is around 10 years old. We have been here 6 years. Had maintenance done on the furnace and AC a couple of times recently, both times they talked about repair vs replacement. But knowing the "quality" (that was sarcasm) of everything else that was put into this house, and that the existing furnace/AC is near the end of its estimated lifespan, plus is showing signs of its age with breakdowns and wear, we decided to get a new one.

Holy shit.

Its a good one. two zone, because we are tired of the upstairs and downstairs being different temperatures. additional something-static air cleaner system, because we have allergy sufferers in our house, and it will be nice to have the air cleaned all at once, instead of running dyson hepa cleaners in each room. Big ginormous warranty, long expected lifespan.

35k

it was nearly heart attack time, I had budgeted 20k. But this isn't something we can cheap out on, so we are making it work.

They are coming tomorrow morning to start the install.

Holy crap!

That looks right. Our small attic subsystem was a heat pump at $17,000. Replaced before its time because airflow was restricted so the unit burned itself and holes in the ducting from the heat. I’ll get a nice tax deduction next year, but 7 years is too early to be replacing HVAC.

Different places, different prices. We replaced one of our Geothermal furnaces, and it was only likt 12k. IT was the smaller of the two. Our larger one needs replaced in the year or two, and it will be about 20k. But we already have the runs in our yard, and everything done already, IE - Electrical and duct work.

Jaymon wrote: ↑Mon Apr 15, 2024 1:25 pm additional something-static air cleaner system