Octopus Overlords

Yes, Vallejo and Liquitex have a brush on matte finish. I like it to a spray, because it provides nice coverage and leaves the mini so nice and smooth.

Sorry, I misread your post, I thought the wolf was the first you have ever varnished!

baelthazar wrote:Sorry, I misread your post, I thought the wolf was the first you have ever varnished!

It was the first one (out of three) that I used gloss varnish on, so you didn't misread that bad.

Say that you and a friend have a Vampire kit + some add-ons and 1 starter paint kit coming from Reaper. What else should you buy to prepare for V-day?

Zaxxon wrote:Say that you and a friend have a Vampire kit + some add-ons and 1 starter paint kit coming from Reaper. What else should you buy to prepare for V-day?

Are you and the friend sharing the painting kit? Is this one that has the full shebang, including brushes?

This post discusses all of the possibilities, but covers more than the necessities.

Personally, I'd start with some Army Painter primer, an X-Acto knife with some extra blades, some sort of varnish, some white glue and sand if you want to base them, maybe a couple of washes (probably black and brown first), plus any major colors the starter kit doesn't include. Oh, and either a wet palette or a pack of cheap plastic palettes. Depending on the brushes and supplies in the starter kit, that would be enough to get started.

Oh, and a good light source. Yellow household bulbs make for wrong colors.

Blackhawk wrote:

Zaxxon wrote:Say that you and a friend have a Vampire kit + some add-ons and 1 starter paint kit coming from Reaper. What else should you buy to prepare for V-day?

Are you and the friend sharing the painting kit? Is this one that has the full shebang, including brushes?

Yes, we're sharing the kit. It's one of the cheap add-ons from the Reaper, which IIRC only includes paint.

This post discusses all of the possibilities, but covers more than the necessities.

Personally, I'd start with some Army Painter primer, an X-Acto knife with some extra blades, some sort of varnish, some white glue and sand if you want to base them, maybe a couple of washes (probably black and brown first), plus any major colors the starter kit doesn't include. Oh, and either a wet palette or a pack of cheap plastic palettes. Depending on the brushes and supplies in the starter kit, that would be enough to get started.

Nuts, I had forgotten you'd already answered this question in detail. I'll peruse that post again. Thanks.

Was it this set?

Yepperooni.

That's an excellent set. My standard 'recommendation' for a starter set is the spectrum (ROYGBIV), minus orange and indigo (which are used rarely enough that they can be mixed until you decide you want to drop the money for pre-mixed), black, white, a couple of browns and some flesh tones, and that is exactly what you are getting.

The only thing that is missing is metallics. At the very least, you need a silver and a gold. Ideally, you'd get a dark silver and a light silver, plus a dark and light gold. If you want to drop extra money, some colors that you might find yourself mixing so often that it would be easier to buy outright might be a second shade of green, a light blue, plus dark and light grays. Since you're getting all Reaper paints (and theirs are excellent), you might consider making any new colors Reaper as well.

Of course, add brushes to my previous recommendations.

If you don't have a local brick-and-mortar, you can order directly from Reaper (who are great to shop with) or from my personal recommendation, The War Store.

Sweet. I do plan to pick up more Reaper paints and will look specifically for the colors you recommended.

For brushes, is something like this a good middle ground? I don't want to spend $30/brush but also don't need to keep it to $4.99 for a set of 10. I would ideally like something that will give my friend and I the basics so we can both work at the same time and get decent results, without tossing $150 into starting up.

I'm no expert, but I'd say that if there's one area where you really should be careful about trying to save money, it's in the brushes. Your primary brushes (which in my case means basecoat, wash, detail and fine detail, though I have plenty more) should all be of prime quality, whereas you can have an ultra-cheap set (that doesn't lose hairs) for the work that is of less importance or which ruins brushes, such as gluing, drybrushing, and mixing paint.

Personally I use Citadel brushes, but I'm sure there are plenty of good alternatives out there.

I agree. You're better off going to an art store and getting two to four really good quality brushes (and, preferably, some brush soap), plus grabbing a small pack of cheapy brushes. You do not want to drybrush with a high-end brush, or your high-end brush will be destroyed.

Brush soap has been added to cart along with your 3-tier organizer, BH.

Will rethink my brush strategy. Formulating that strategy should also probably include re-reading this thread and determining what 'drybrushing' is.

Thanks for all the n00b advice. Really trying to get myself set so that when the Reapers arrive, I minimize the number that I destroy through ignorance, unsuitable supplies and other n00bness.

Zaxxon wrote:re-reading this thread and determining what 'drybrushing' is.

I could try to explain, but it's better to see it for yourself.

Thanks for all the n00b advice. Really trying to get myself set so that when the Reapers arrive, I minimize the number that I destroy through ignorance, unsuitable supplies and other n00bness.

Don't worry about that. If you do happen to completely ruin a miniature, the paint can be stripped off rather easily with some brush cleaner and a toothbrush, allowing you to start over.

Shadowed Steel, Polished Silver, Ancient Bronze, New Gold, Olive Green, Sky Blue, Rainy Grey, and Misty Grey are on their way to me from Reaper. I'm sure it's coincidence that hitting your 8-additional-color recommendation was just enough to qualify for free shipping, eh Blackhawk?

TiLT wrote:

Zaxxon wrote:re-reading this thread and determining what 'drybrushing' is.

I could try to explain, but it's better to see it for yourself.

Thanks.

Thanks for all the n00b advice. Really trying to get myself set so that when the Reapers arrive, I minimize the number that I destroy through ignorance, unsuitable supplies and other n00bness.

Don't worry about that. If you do happen to completely ruin a miniature, the paint can be stripped off rather easily with some brush cleaner and a toothbrush, allowing you to start over.

Cool.

Make sure you get second opinions about brushes. While my general statement about '2-4 good ones and some so-so brushes' is sound, I'm not an expert on the best brushes, as I tend to just end up with whatever is on sale. One of these days I'll get around to buying a set of really good brushes.

Also, I tend to used smaller brushes than most. It's a habit I'm trying to break.

Blackhawk wrote:Also, I tend to used smaller brushes than most. It's a habit I'm trying to break.

What is "smaller" to you when it comes to brushes? I find myself using the Citadel basecoat brush for most of my coloring, with the detail brush taking over for the finer areas, and the fine detail brush for tiny stuff like eyes.

I used to paint 90% of my miniatures with a 10/0 brush, and I still do detail work with a 10/0 with half of the bristles trimmed off.

Blackhawk wrote:Make sure you get second opinions about brushes. While my general statement about '2-4 good ones and some so-so brushes' is sound, I'm not an expert on the best brushes, as I tend to just end up with whatever is on sale. One of these days I'll get around to buying a set of really good brushes.

Also, I tend to used smaller brushes than most. It's a habit I'm trying to break.

This is what I did when I started. I think it is a good strategy. I have two army painter brushes (the character and insane detail) and I got some higher end synthetics for this and that (my parents also got me a nice set for X-mas). But my down-and-dirty work I do with a bunch of packaged brushes that I got for $5-9. You really don't want to drybrush or varnish with high quality brushes.

And that brush soap is a must. I love it. I love the smell. Sometimes I want to taste it!

Zaxxon, I do not pretend to be an expert, but I did a web video series on some of the things I found helpful when I started painting and on how to make a DIY wet palette. Here are the links:

Wet Palette:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y_8l8DtIQZk" target="_blank

Paints:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YqiAYesBGdM" target="_blank

And I just realized I never uploaded my "Chemicals" video that discusses varnish, flow improver, matte medium and the like. Crap. I'll try to get that up soon. But you will need to invest in a variety of painting "chems." At the very least, grab a bottle of Liquitex flow aid and follow the directions on the bottle (I think it is 1 part Flow Aid to 20 parts water). You will use this to dilute your paints. Thankfully, the Reaper paints are very good and need less dilution (IMHO).

Wow - I couldn't get through either of those videos. He talks way too much! It was painful.

You have odd definitions of "too much" and "painful".

Thanks for the links, Bael. I've started watching them and I've already learned a few things!

hepcat wrote:You have odd definitions of "too much" and "painful".

Perhaps I do. I didn't mean to be harsh, though. I do enjoy his speaking voice and his casual manner, but I think he could easily explain either video in 1/2 to 2/3 the time he used. There are long stretches of video with nothing visual happening. Then again, it is youtube and at least the info is good when he finally gets to it. I don't think they were awful.

The net effect was that I plan to buy/make a wet palette and I have sought out tons of other painting vids and am learning / relearning a lot. This thread has been immensely helpful and motivating. So thanks a ton to everyone who's posting pics and tips. You guys are great!

In other news; I'm prepping to start painting again. Thanks to some of the really great posts about equipment and such, I have dug out my old modeling tools box. I embarked on a most perilous quest through my wife's hobby/junk room to reclaim some items like my hemostats and pliers. I also recovered my old paints and they were in BAD shape. I threw out about 100 bottles of old Ral Partha paints. Some were semi-solid goop, some were dried to the point of cracking and crumbling. My brushes are long gone and will also have to be replaced.

All's well that ends well though - I live 30 minutes from the Reaper Game store in Denton, TX (reaper mini retail outlet) and I'm headed over there right now to check it out and maybe buy a paint set. At the very least, it will be a fun expedition. Wish me luck, my wallet will probably be hurting when I return. Yay!

EDIT: they are hard at work sorting our orders. I got to see the new building where they are going to make an injection molding facility. We got to look through their display room of professionally done minis. It was a ton of fun. Oh... and ouch I bought a lot of paint.

Spent 20 minutes trying to glue a damn sword arm onto a Malifaux guild guard. It SAYS it sets in 10 seconds...it REALLY sets in 2 minutes. Lesson learned...painfully. My fingers look like they're covered in scar tissue now.

Going to take these outside today and prime them. Seppe and I are going to try a cursory game of Malifaux later this week with unpainted minis.

hepcat wrote:Spent 20 minutes trying to glue a damn sword arm onto a Malifaux guild guard. It SAYS it sets in 10 seconds...it REALLY sets in 2 minutes. Lesson learned...painfully. My fingers look like they're covered in scar tissue now.

Was it a metal or plastic mini? I find gluing metal minis to be incredibly frustrating, more or less requiring that I combine green stuff with super glue and hold the pieces in position for a while. Plastic minis are much easier, no matter if I use the special plastic glue or ordinary super glue. The 10-second rule really works there.

Metal. Fortunately wyrd (the makers of Malifaux) seem to be moving to plastic now.

hepcat wrote:Spent 20 minutes trying to glue a damn sword arm onto a Malifaux guild guard. It SAYS it sets in 10 seconds...it REALLY sets in 2 minutes. Lesson learned...painfully. My fingers look like they're covered in scar tissue now.

Going to take these outside today and prime them. Seppe and I are going to try a cursory game of Malifaux later this week with unpainted minis.

I used to use a fast set spray when doing supergluing of minis. Also, if it's a big piece, you may need to pin it to get a solid hold. Talk to Tommy...he's great at modifying and assembling minis.

You need zip kicker- its a CA accelerator in a pump/spray bottle. It makes it cure instantly. While you're at it - buy some debonder. I need to pick up both before my Reaper minis arrive. I also have to pick up some green stuff, Xacto blades and a can of spray primer. Otherwise I'm set to go.

Cylus Maxii wrote:You need zip kicker- its a CA accelerator in a pump/spray bottle.

No, you don't. You know what else is a CA accelerator that comes in pump/spray bottles? H20. Plain ol' water. Spit if you're desperate.

Cool. I had no idea.

The glue seems to be holding well, so I'm okay for now. I'm expecting a starter box for the faction I'm playing with in the game tomorrow (if the UPS truck doesn't break down again...or Miniature Market screws up the order again). So I'll have more to glue then.

I primed the ones I have now in black a little while ago. It's amazing how much detail you see when you prime them. Stuff that I couldn't see when it was just all drab metal are standing out now. Unfortunately, I may have applied too much primer as they have the slick appearance that many of the guides warned me about. But these are my first and they're just going to be for gaming, not display so I'm not going to worry too much about the quality of the paint job.

Finished my first batch of Malifaux minis yesterday (we had a snow day at the office so I came home early). They're the first I've done since I was a teenager, so they're crude. Still, I primarily want them for playing the game so I'm not too disappointed. I haven't tried drybrushing them yet as I'm afraid I'll ruin them.


Guild Austringer


Guild Guard 1


Guild Guard 2


The gang

edit: man, i can't take mobile phone pics worth a damn.

It's hard to see the details on the minis from those pictures, so I'm going to wait to comment. Try using a white background (a sheet of paper is fine) and moving the camera back so that you can get proper focus. It doesn't matter if the mini only occupies a small portion of the frame, as you can easily crop that digitally afterwards. I'd also recommend using a matte varnish on the minis before taking pictures, as this will remove most of the reflections and make them look better.

Also be sure to turn on the macro setting if your phone/camera has one.

I'll give it a shot and update if they look better.

The biggest problems I've had with this project is gluing the minis when they require it (although I think I've got the hang of it now...although it took me more than a few tries) and tabs that are sometimes a little too large for the base slots. A couple of my figures are a little wobbly when placed on the table due to a tab that's protruding a few centimeters beyond the base bottom. I need to find a way to file those down without damaging my mini.

If these things are white metal (almost all metal miniatures are), just shave off the bottom of the tab with an Xacto knife. Check base fit as part of the prep along with cleaning up seams/washing the miniatures.

Blue and yellow stuff makes for a nice base stabilizer/filler. Next time you don't need to push the mini so far down. Just rub some stuff together and make a mound at the top base around the slot where it sticks up.

For those of you who have magnifier lamps: Can you please tell us about them (size, magnification, LED/fluorescent, etc)? I may be looking for a new one. I'm getting old enough that I need/use reading glasses and will probably need a good magnifier lamp to paint by. Please tell us what works good for you.

FWIW - my old ones have 4" or 5" lenses and are the articulated type with spring-loaded joints. They have plain incandescent or fluorescent bulbs; I don't remember exactly which type, but I do I recall the bulbs running pretty hot on them. They are 20+ years old and were discards from some office. They are quite old and battered and the joints/springs are wonky. I'll have to fish them out of the attic and see if they still work.

Bought a 10 dollar pair of 2.25 reading glasses. Man, what a difference that makes when painting. Time to redo some of the finer aspects of my guild crew.

I stopped at the local art supply store for a Table Magnifying Lamp that will give me natural light.

Make sure you pick up a daylight bulb. Some of those artists' lights come with 'color enhancing' lights that make things look great under the light, but bad everywhere else.