[Shaving] Old School vs. The World

Xmann · Post by **Xmann** » Fri Dec 11, 2015 12:34 pm

So, as an early Christmas gift to myself, I bought the Colonel Conk Model 111 Santa Fe Shave Cup off Amazon.

I didn't read carefully in the description that I would also be getting some Colonel Conk shave soap as well.

I've used the shaving soap twice now and it's simply fantastic. Doesn't give me quite the lather I would like. But man what a good close shave.

Great product and performance after two shaves.

McNutt · Post by **McNutt** » Fri Dec 11, 2015 12:48 pm

Which soap? I think Conk lather is okay, but their scents (bay rum and amber) are fantastic.

I still can't get enough of the Captain's Choice Bay Rum soap I've been using for the past few months. The quality of the lather is amazing.

Xmann · Post by **Xmann** » Fri Dec 11, 2015 12:54 pm

Amber Glycerine Bar

Yeah, lather is disappointing. But the shave I am getting is wonderful.

McNutt · Post by **McNutt** » Fri Dec 11, 2015 1:01 pm

That was the first soap I ever used and I always have a puck on hand. I'm tempted to get the aftershave, but one review said it didn't smell like the soap.

The best lathers I've found from soaps are:
Tabac - great lather, polarizing scent
Captain's Choice - Fantastic stuff
Provence Sainte - Scent is very pleasant, just not too strong.
Penhaligon English Fern - Nice, cologne-like scent

I have tons of other soaps and they all perform well, those four are just standouts as far as quality of lather.

Anonymous Bosch · Post by **Anonymous Bosch** » Fri Dec 11, 2015 1:16 pm

McNutt wrote:The best blades I ever used were Israeli Personnas that I got off Amazon. I haven't been able to find similarly labeled Personnas and the ones I have found aren't as good.

As mentioned earlier, different blades work for different people. I need to try some of those Russian blades though. I've never tried any.

They're definitely well worth trying.

Polsilver Super Iridium blades are easily my favourite blades in current production. In terms of sharpness, they're perhaps everso slightly less sharp than Feather Hi-Stainless blades. But despite being very close in sharpness to Feather blades, I find the Polsilver Super Iridiums to be much smoother and more forgiving, which makes for a significantly more comfortable shave. Better yet, I also find them to be substantially more durable than pretty much any other blade I've tried (e.g. where I might get three close and comfortable shaves from a Feather blade before I have to toss it, Polsilver Super Iridium blades are easily good for seven+).

McNutt · Post by **McNutt** » Fri Dec 11, 2015 1:20 pm

Thanks. I just ordered a 50-pack.

RunningMn9 · Post by **RunningMn9** » Fri Dec 11, 2015 1:40 pm

I still haven't tried any of these soaps. I have a puck of Colonel Conk soap that SmooveB gave me, but I don't know what to do with it. I'm a lather in the bowl kind of guy (I don't lather on my face). Standing there with my brush and my sweet little steel bowl makes me feel fancy. I don't want to stop doing that. With creams, it all makes sense. Put cream in bowl, use brush to make lather. Can you load up the brush from the soap, and then lather in the bowl? Is that totally unnecessary? I don't know the answers.

My various XMas presents have arrived though, so I anxiously await Christmas morning when I get a crack at my new various Truefitt & Hill products.

Xmann · Post by **Xmann** » Fri Dec 11, 2015 2:00 pm

RunningMn9 wrote:I still haven't tried any of these soaps. I have a puck of Colonel Conk soap that SmooveB gave me, but I don't know what to do with it. I'm a lather in the bowl kind of guy (I don't lather on my face). Standing there with my brush and my sweet little steel bowl makes me feel fancy. I don't want to stop doing that. With creams, it all makes sense. Put cream in bowl, use brush to make lather. Can you load up the brush from the soap, and then lather in the bowl? Is that totally unnecessary? I don't know the answers.

My various XMas presents have arrived though, so I anxiously await Christmas morning when I get a crack at my new various Truefitt & Hill products.

The Conk soap I just got fits right into the ceramic bowl that is made from Conk as well. It just fits right into the bowl and I can work up a lather with the soap sitting right into the bowl. Not like a cream, hence my earlier comment about not getting a great lather with it.

When I decide to use a cream, I'm planning on lathering it up in the bowl.

I'm with you, I love working up the lather in the bowl. The whole shaving process is rather enjoyable for me.

McNutt · Post by **McNutt** » Fri Dec 11, 2015 3:43 pm

RunningMn9 wrote:I still haven't tried any of these soaps. I have a puck of Colonel Conk soap that SmooveB gave me, but I don't know what to do with it. I'm a lather in the bowl kind of guy (I don't lather on my face). Standing there with my brush and my sweet little steel bowl makes me feel fancy. I don't want to stop doing that. With creams, it all makes sense. Put cream in bowl, use brush to make lather. Can you load up the brush from the soap, and then lather in the bowl? Is that totally unnecessary? I don't know the answers.

You can lather in a bowl just fine. You need to rub the brush around the soap for a few seconds and then start whipping it up in the bowl like you would with cream. Add water little by little until you get your desired whippiness. Really floppy brushes will require a little more work with soaps as brushes with more backbone will pick up more of the soap with each swirl.

Anonymous Bosch · Post by **Anonymous Bosch** » Fri Dec 11, 2015 4:05 pm

RunningMn9 wrote:Can you load up the brush from the soap, and then lather in the bowl? Is that totally unnecessary? I don't know the answers.

Absolutely. I generally prefer soaps over cream myself, and bowl-lathering should help simplify the process if you've not lathered with a soap before.

For most soaps, I get the best results by starting with a damp brush, i.e. squeezing the brush, or shaking it once or twice, so that it's wettish/damp rather than dripping wet. Brush the soap briskly to load your brush, coating it with a paste of soap; around 30 to 45 seconds should be plenty. Then move to your lathering bowl and add driblets of water as necessary to work up a satisfying lather, and you're good to go.

RunningMn9 · Post by **RunningMn9** » Fri Dec 11, 2015 4:14 pm

Excellent. I will experiment with the Conk tomorrow morning.

Alefroth · Post by **Alefroth** » Fri Dec 11, 2015 4:32 pm

Binktopia · Post by **Binktopia** » Mon Dec 14, 2015 1:43 pm

Bought some shaving cream that was recommended to me. Now I just need a brush and a mug, I could get an espresso mug at a thrift store, that should work?

All of this is sorta a big Christmas present from people that have bought gift cards for me, so last years presents.

McNutt · Post by **McNutt** » Mon Dec 14, 2015 2:31 pm

You can use a bowl too. I bought a $1 hard plastic bowl and it works well. It also won't shatter if I drop it.

RunningMn9 · Post by **RunningMn9** » Mon Dec 14, 2015 3:04 pm

RunningMn9 wrote:Excellent. I will experiment with the Conk tomorrow morning.

It went well. Loaded up no problem, and then made a reasonable amount of lather for the shaving process. No complaints here. Time to add some soaps.

Anonymous Bosch · Post by **Anonymous Bosch** » Mon Dec 14, 2015 3:10 pm

Binktopia wrote:Bought some shaving cream that was recommended to me. Now I just need a brush and a mug, I could get an espresso mug at a thrift store, that should work?

All of this is sorta a big Christmas present from people that have bought gift cards for me, so last years presents.

For a great starter brush that won't break the bank, you'd be hard-pressed to find much better value than the Omega 48 or Omega 49 boar brushes (although, personally, I prefer the wooden-handled Omega 20102 for aesthetic reasons, which is only slightly more expensive). Don't be tempted into buying the crappy brushes typically available from drug stores and the like.

For <$15 shipped, you can get one of the most iconic shaving brushes on the market that's made in Italy, and still the go-to brush for a traditional wet-shave in Italian barbershops. However, it's worth noting, it is a boar brush -- which means it'll typically arrive with an odour somewhat reminiscent of wet dog, and will require a break-in period to get rid of that funky smell and soften the bristles sufficiently for ideal performance (you can read a great guide on the subject of boar brushes, and how best to prepare them for use, here).

As for the mug, it sounds like you have the right idea. If you plan on using it as more of a lather bowl (as opposed to accomodating a puck of shave soap), I'd suggest looking for the shorter, wider-style mugs at your thrift store. Buying from a thrift store means you needn't be too upset if you ever drop it (and using a ceramic mug or bowl gives you the added bonus of good heat-retention).

Odin · Post by **Odin** » Tue Dec 15, 2015 9:15 am

My son is 14.5 and his cheek-fuzz is starting to darken up near his sideburns, so I told him he'd need to start thinking soonish about how he wants to shave. I told him the options included the easy but not great electric shaver (which is what I've used for the last 30 years), the simple and better but expensive disposable razor, and the time-honored safety razor. He jumped at the electric shaver, but I kind of feel like I owe it to him to have him try the safety razor route. Heck, given how infrequently I shave, I'm considering it for myself as well. I'm going to have to see - I don't want to buy him a full kit if he has zero interest in it, and then have to turn around and spend $70-80 on an electric.

pr0ner · Post by **pr0ner** » Tue Dec 15, 2015 10:21 am

Reading the updates on this thread make me glad I decided to grow a beard. So much time saved every morning.

Xmann · Post by **Xmann** » Tue Dec 15, 2015 10:25 am

pr0ner wrote:Reading the updates on this thread make me glad I decided to grow a beard. So much time saved every morning.

That's the thing though, I loooooove the time and effort I spend in shaving.

RunningMn9 · Post by **RunningMn9** » Tue Dec 15, 2015 10:29 am

pr0ner wrote:Reading the updates on this thread make me glad I decided to grow a beard. So much time saved every morning.

I've been where you are.

AB - why the push for the boar bristle brush? I have a relatively inexpensive Omega Badger Brush. It's one of my favorite things on earth.

McNutt · Post by **McNutt** » Tue Dec 15, 2015 10:33 am

Wait till you buy a really expensive brush. It will be like driving a Ferrari when a Kia will do, but driving a Ferrari rocks. Pure indulgence.

RunningMn9 · Post by **RunningMn9** » Tue Dec 15, 2015 11:30 am

McNutt wrote:Wait till you buy a really expensive brush. It will be like driving a Ferrari when a Kia will do, but driving a Ferrari rocks. Pure indulgence.

My brain does not understand how they can be different. My wallet doesn't allow me to find out.

McNutt · Post by **McNutt** » Tue Dec 15, 2015 11:43 am

There is a big difference in feel of the hair.

Pure Badger - Somewhat scratchy
Best Badger - Big jump over Pure. Slightly stronger hair (less flex) with softer tips.
Super/silvertip badger - Even softer tips.

There is also a big difference in feel of a brush that has a ton of hair crammed into a tight knot and one that doesn't. Tighter knots are going to give you more resistance as you use the brush. Looser knots are going to splay our more and won't have the backbone.

You also need to figure out what knot size and loft height works best for you. I prefer a 22-23mm knot with a relatively short loft. It allows the brush to give my face more of a scrub than a big brush with a lot of give.

I wouldn't recommend dropping a lot of money on a brush until you figure out what type of brush you really want. You can buy used brushes online and sell them if you don't like them. I've done that with pretty much no change in price.

Anonymous Bosch · Post by **Anonymous Bosch** » Tue Dec 15, 2015 12:06 pm

RunningMn9 wrote:AB - why the push for the boar bristle brush? I have a relatively inexpensive Omega Badger Brush. It's one of my favorite things on earth.

Well, much like McNutt, I own numerous 'Ferrari-style' badger brushes that are just pure luxurious indulgence through and through. But I also own several boar brushes that have broken in wonderfully well and, in all honesty, provide better value for money than the vast majority of badger brushes. So, for someone just starting out that doesn't exactly have money to burn, a quality boar brush makes for a great way to get started without breaking the bank.

Smoove_B · Post by **Smoove_B** » Tue Dec 15, 2015 12:26 pm

Plus, that wet boar smell.

Anonymous Bosch · Post by **Anonymous Bosch** » Tue Dec 15, 2015 1:11 pm

Smoove_B wrote:Plus, that wet boar smell.

Ah, it's not that bad, particularly in comparison to that wet NJ smell.

But following the instructions I linked to previously takes care of it in no time at all (particularly if deodourising pet shampoo is used during the initial cleaning).

Pyperkub · Post by **Pyperkub** » Fri Dec 18, 2015 7:27 pm

Gillette suing Dollar Shave Club:

Gillette, the unit of consumer products giant Procter & Gamble (PG) that dominates the sale of razors, is suing upstart Dollar Shave Club, accusing it of patent violations.

The suit claims the way certain materials coat Dollar Shave Club's blades violates a 2004 patent held by Gillette. It says those coatings keep the blade sharp.

The suit, filed in federal court in Delaware this week, asks the court to block the sale of razors by Dollar Shave Club.

Isgrimnur · Post by **Isgrimnur** » Wed Jul 20, 2016 11:39 am

I'm sure their legal representation will get better once Unilever buys them out:

Unilever is getting into the razor business in a big way, acquiring Dollar Shave Club for a reported $1 billion.

The purchase, first announced Tuesday night, brings Unilever further into the men's grooming business. The company currently owns Axe and Dove soaps, but through Dollar Shave Club will further expand into the category. Beyond its trademark razors Dollar Shave Club has grown its portfolio of men's grooming products to skin care, hair products, wipes and soaps.
...
In addition to razors, Dollar Shave Club also offers Unilever another piece it's been lacking: a direct-to-consumer model.
...
Terms of the deal were not disclosed but Fortune, citing "multiple sources close to the deal," says Unilever will be paying $1 billion in cash. Dollar Shave Club will continue to run as an independent company inside Unilever, with CEO Michael Dubin remaining as CEO of the company.

Dollar Shave Club recently closed an $160 million round of funding, valuing the company at $539 million. The company was expected to turn a profit later this year behind revenues of $240 million.
...
Unilever expects the deal to close in the third quarter. The company's stock was up slightly in early trading Wednesday.

Covenant72 · Post by **Covenant72** » Tue Nov 22, 2016 3:31 pm

So, I have been on the fence wanting to take the DE fancy man plunge and am finally ready to embark but with so many choices I'm kinda at a loss and don't feel like researching for a week. What I'm looking for is some help in product choices for the basics (handle, brush, bowl, stand, soap) with an eye towards the fact I'm a beginner. I'm willing to spend a decent amount, but I'm not really ready for a $250 brush yet either (at least not until that sweet black tar has its claws in me).

For reference, I have very slow facial hair growth and my skin isn't particularly sensitive. My girlfriend also hates artificial perfumes and chemicals so all natural soaps and such will make my life easier.

Paingod · Post by **Paingod** » Tue Nov 22, 2016 3:43 pm

I'm a basic guy. I just use a Merkur long-handled double-edge safety razor, an assortment pack of blades from Amazon, and a creamy soap that my wife brought home from a soap-crafter's conference. Total cost: around $50. I'm probably a terrible person to follow. Half the time, I just wet my face with hot water and shave. The other half, it's too short to shave that way and I smear the soap on my face, no brush, and shave. I get 2-3 uses out of each safety blade. I don't use a brush or anything special - just rub the soap on my face until it lathers with my own bristles.

I don't know if I could ever get into ritualizing it the way some folks do. I'd rather not have to shave at all.

I will say that you should probably avoid Feather blades, though. I thought people calling them "bloodthirsty" was a humorous exaggeration until I tried them. They may work better for people with coarser hair, but I just kept peeling my face like a potato.

A nonny mouse · Post by **A nonny mouse** » Tue Nov 22, 2016 3:48 pm

Covenant72 wrote:So, I have been on the fence wanting to take the DE fancy man plunge and am finally ready to embark but with so many choices I'm kinda at a loss and don't feel like researching for a week. What I'm looking for is some help in product choices for the basics (handle, brush, bowl, stand, soap) with an eye towards the fact I'm a beginner. I'm willing to spend a decent amount, but I'm not really ready for a $250 brush yet either (at least not until that sweet black tar has its claws in me).

For reference, I have very slow facial hair growth and my skin isn't particularly sensitive. My girlfriend also hates artificial perfumes and chemicals so all natural soaps and such will make my life easier.

Razor: Merkur HD (qedusa.com) I would avoid adjustables.
shave cream: Nancy boy signature (nancyboy.com)
aftershave: nancyboy signature (nancyboy.com)
blades: feather platinum (qedusa.com)
brush: not sure what to suggest I have silvertip badger (22mm) as well as badger. I use them both.
I use an old large soup mug for my bowl.

Nancy boy, despite the name for straight men, is F-ing fantastic. Customer service is one of the best I have ever dealt with as well (the owners respond, not some minion). all natural and the scent is nice without overly perfumy stink. 5 of 7 days a week I will use it.

I use a lot of other soaps/shave creams/aftershaves, but for a start this is what I would suggest until you feel you want to branch out. I have many different sandalwood or woodsy type scents, and cannot use rose - it is the only thing I have a reaction to. weird.

my $.02

A nonny mouse · Post by **A nonny mouse** » Tue Nov 22, 2016 3:51 pm

Paingod wrote:
I will say that you should probably avoid Feather blades, though. I thought people calling them "bloodthirsty" was a humorous exaggeration until I tried them. They may work better for people with coarser hair, but I just kept peeling my face like a potato.

maybe too much pressure when you are shaving? I have not too coarse hair and most other blades are dull in 2 or 3 days. or at least feel that way. feathers last about 6 days for me. and I am a total cheapskate and will use a blade until I know it is not cutting well. /shrug. that is why one needs to try some different things and see what works.

Paingod · Post by **Paingod** » Tue Nov 22, 2016 4:13 pm

A nonny mouse wrote:maybe too much pressure when you are shaving? I have not too coarse hair and most other blades are dull in 2 or 3 days. or at least feel that way. feathers last about 6 days for me. and I am a total cheapskate and will use a blade until I know it is not cutting well. /shrug. that is why one needs to try some different things and see what works.

Man, I wanted to love them and kept trying until my sample pack was done. Where I wasn't bleeding, I was very well shaved - but every single time I put in a new one, I was guaranteed about 6-8 bloody nicks for the next couple shaves. Each time I put in any other new blade, I'm fine. I'll live with less sharp and more frequent purchasing.

Xmann · Post by **Xmann** » Tue Nov 22, 2016 5:03 pm

Paingod wrote:
A nonny mouse wrote:maybe too much pressure when you are shaving? I have not too coarse hair and most other blades are dull in 2 or 3 days. or at least feel that way. feathers last about 6 days for me. and I am a total cheapskate and will use a blade until I know it is not cutting well. /shrug. that is why one needs to try some different things and see what works.
Man, I wanted to love them and kept trying until my sample pack was done. Where I wasn't bleeding, I was very well shaved - but every single time I put in a new one, I was guaranteed about 6-8 bloody nicks for the next couple shaves. Each time I put in any other new blade, I'm fine. I'll live with less sharp and more frequent purchasing.

same thing for me with the feather razors. I gave myself a couple months of practice before I tried the feather razors and they tore me up. I've found that people either love them or they make you a bloody mess.

Xmann · Post by **Xmann** » Tue Nov 22, 2016 5:16 pm

I went with the Merkur razor and it's served me well.

I primarily use the Merkur blades as well. But I've bought some sample packs from Amazon to try different blades out. That's a good suggestions too.

I like the Captain Choice aftershave. Gives you that nice good burn but without a strong smell afterwards.

I like Taylor of Old Bond Street shaving creams. Any variety or style of them are great.

I also found out that when I shaved at a minimum every other day, my skin improved and shaving became easier. I actually try to shave daily as it's actually good for your skin because it exfoliating.

I'm definitely one of the shaving nerds who loves it and I have a ritual. I just jump in a hot shower before to get my skin and stubble ready for a shave. I don't have coarse hair and I don't have fast growth. I just honestly enjoy it.

I also found out there are many videos on YouTube I'd recommend to watch. Many different styles and suggestions. My wife thinks it's kind of weird, but I enjoy seeing the different techniques and products people use. It's definitely worth looking at a few as a beginner..

Anonymous Bosch · Post by **Anonymous Bosch** » Tue Nov 22, 2016 6:57 pm

Covenant72 wrote:So, I have been on the fence wanting to take the DE fancy man plunge and am finally ready to embark but with so many choices I'm kinda at a loss and don't feel like researching for a week. What I'm looking for is some help in product choices for the basics (handle, brush, bowl, stand, soap) with an eye towards the fact I'm a beginner. I'm willing to spend a decent amount, but I'm not really ready for a $250 brush yet either (at least not until that sweet black tar has its claws in me).

For reference, I have very slow facial hair growth and my skin isn't particularly sensitive. My girlfriend also hates artificial perfumes and chemicals so all natural soaps and such will make my life easier.

Not sure on your budget, so I've included three different brush options you can choose from:

Budget Brush: Any of the boar brushes I mentioned here.
Mid-range Brush: Edwin Jagger Best Badger Shaving Brush w/ Drip Stand, $48.55 on Amazon.
Luxury Brush: For the full indulgent luxury experience at an exceptionally low price point, you can't go wrong with the WSP Monarch, made with high-density, High Mountain White Silvertip Badger Hair, $109.99 on Amazon.
DE Razor: Edwin Jagger DE89Lbl Lined Detail Chrome Plated Double Edge Safety Razor, $29.00 on Amazon.
DE Blades: Any blade sampler pack that includes the superb Russian Polsilver Super Iridium Blades I mentioned earlier in this thread (which remain my absolute favourite brand), e.g. Razor Emporium sells a Sensitive Skin blade sample pack which includes that particular brand along with several others.
Shaving Cream: For a traditional shaving cream, Taylor of Old Bond Street's Sandalwood Shaving Cream remains the #1 best seller on Amazon for good reason, $16 on Amazon. However, Cremo Cream is also an excellent widely-available mass market brand.

That ought to be enough to get you started. Accessories such as shaving bowls really aren't necessary when you're just starting out. For best results, I recommend downloading the free eBook guide available from the Sharpologist site, which covers everything you'll need for a great traditional wet shave.

Z-Corn · Post by **Z-Corn** » Wed Nov 23, 2016 9:06 am

I can ditto recommendations of the Merkur razor, I use the short handle. I've liked all the Taylor of Old Bond street shaving soaps I've tried with the exception of the lime flavor, that didn't grab me.

I use and love Feather blades but I have pretty course whiskers and only shave twice a week.

Big fan of Lucky Tiger after shave and face tonic and Lucky Tiger vanishing cream. I use both of these every time I shave.

McNutt · Post by **McNutt** » Wed Nov 23, 2016 10:35 am

Expensive brushes are a total luxury and not a necessity. So don't go all out on your first brush. Some premium brushes are really stiff, some have a lot of flop. Make sure you know what you like before you pull the trigger on that. But once you do make that step and get a fantastic brush that is embarrassingly expensive, you will love it. I have a Rooney's Finest that is far and above my other brushes, and some of those are pretty expensive too. That brush will be in my will.

Merkur has razors to suit every taste. It's hard to go wrong with the HD model.

For blades, I agree to get a sample pack and see which one sticks out. I have never been able to shave with a Feather blade without getting a nick.

For creams or soaps, two of the best performing soaps I've ever tried (I greatly prefer soaps) is Captain's Choice Bay Rum and Provence Sante. Neither one is terribly expensive, but the lather they create is unbeatable.

Any bowl will do and you may find that you never use a shaving bowl/mug. I have very nice brushes and I enjoy feeling them work the lather directly on my face. If you shave with a bowl/mug then your brush loses its importance and becomes simply a paintbrush.

A nonny mouse · Post by **A nonny mouse** » Thu Nov 24, 2016 11:08 pm

All great advice!

i prefer creams to soaps, but use soaps as well. Ask some places for samples of creams and aftershaves as well as blade sample packs. Most of all have fun with it. It can get addicting!

RunningMn9 · Post by **RunningMn9** » Thu Nov 24, 2016 11:53 pm

Like most, I started with a Merkur handle (I prefer the short handle). I've tried a few blades, but settled on Shark Super Chromes.

I'm a cream guy, and the two that I have are Taylor of Old Bond Street (Sandalwood) and Truefitt & Hill (Key Lime). I love them both.

I have a cheap little stainless bowl that I use. It still astonishes me that I enjoy shaving after hating it for so many decades.