[Miniatures] Painting tips and progress reports (with pics!)

YellowKing · Post by **YellowKing** » Tue Dec 17, 2019 10:08 pm

Smoove_B wrote:The wife is desperately frustrated with anything to get me for Xmas (I need nothing), but the idea of finally experimenting with these Contrast paints is enticing.

My FLGS just started stocking these, so I've asked for gift cards for just that purpose.

Smoove_B · Post by **Smoove_B** » Tue Dec 17, 2019 10:37 pm

I am also not hip to Citadel naming schemes. Why is "Warp Lightning" green? Shouldn't it be blue? Maybe a violet-white?

AWS260 · Post by **AWS260** » Tue Dec 17, 2019 10:43 pm

Blackhawk · Post by **Blackhawk** » Wed Dec 18, 2019 1:16 am

Smoove_B wrote: ↑Tue Dec 17, 2019 10:37 pm I am also not hip to Citadel naming schemes. Why is "Warp Lightning" green? Shouldn't it be blue? Maybe a violet-white?

All the Citadel naming conventions are tied to a knowledge of the Warhammer lore. Warp anything is green (just like in Warcraft, anything 'fel' is green.)

It's a stupid convention, but Games Workshop has always worked under the assumption that everyone with any interest in Warhammer lives only for Warhammer.

hentzau · Post by **hentzau** » Wed Dec 18, 2019 1:31 am

Harvesters...Nazdreg Yellow and Black Templar

Devastators...Blood Angels Red and Black Templar and Apothecary White

Assassin...Apothecary White and Black Templar

Live One...Plaguebearer Flesh, Volupus Pink, and Basilicanum Grey...I hit this with a wash after because it was too bright. Army Painter Strong Tone

Smoove_B · Post by **Smoove_B** » Wed Dec 18, 2019 9:00 am

Yeah, I think I guessed about half of those - very helpful to know exactly as you've made a good match to the artwork in the book (which I always try to do). Very helpful - thanks.

Blackhawk wrote: ↑Wed Dec 18, 2019 1:16 amAll the Citadel naming conventions are tied to a knowledge of the Warhammer lore. Warp anything is green (just like in Warcraft, anything 'fel' is green.) It's a stupid convention, but Games Workshop has always worked under the assumption that everyone with any interest in Warhammer lives only for Warhammer.

I'll say. If I was on Jeopardy, I'd never guess "Warp" was in the green family. Clearly it works for them, but as a true outsider it's baffling.

hentzau · Post by **hentzau** » Wed Dec 18, 2019 11:30 am

Also, this is my first foray into using clear plastic bases. Based on recommendations from the Lead Adventurers forum, I bought these from Pulp Alley. They were dirt cheap, like $2.50 for 20. After getting them, I can see why. They seem like very thin plastic, a little thicker than overhead projector sheets (if you're old enough to remember those) that they used a large hole punch on. And they work. They do a great job of disappearing on the table. I wouldn't want to put a 32mm metal figure on one, but for these light plastic models they are a treat.

Smoove_B · Post by **Smoove_B** » Wed Dec 18, 2019 11:34 am

I love the clear bases (particularly when the art great on the playing surface) but removing minis from the original plastic ones makes me very nervous. Do you have a special tool or just a steady hand? My buddy is able to use an Xacto knife like it's a laser, but I struggle.

hentzau · Post by **hentzau** » Wed Dec 18, 2019 11:47 am

For these, just an xacto knife with a new blade. For the most part, they come off pretty easily. Just rotate the mini so that you are putting downward pressure on the point closest to your cutting mat, slide the blade right up flat on the base, angled slightly toward the base, and apply downward pressure. I found that with he hand holding the mini, I had thumb and index finger holding the base, and my middle finger under the leg supporting it.

The only one from the original set that I haven't got finished is Gak. His foot is much wider than the other figs, and I was starting to get tired when I was getting around to doing his, and I could sense I was about to do something stupid so I put him off for a bit. I'll get back to him tonight/tomorrow with a fresh blade.

I'm toying with trying to put some brush on anti-shine medium on the bases to cut down the shine/glare. We'll see.

(Oh. Paint them on their original bases first, then cut them off. Keeps the clear bases clean.)

Blackhawk · Post by **Blackhawk** » Wed Dec 18, 2019 11:55 am

Smoove_B wrote: ↑Wed Dec 18, 2019 9:00 am
I'll say. If I was on Jeopardy, I'd never guess "Warp" was in the green family. Clearly it works for them, but as a true outsider it's baffling.

<microlore>

In Warhammer, Chaos is the prime world-level antagonist for many things. Chaos energy twists, corrupts, and mutates. Chaos energy sometimes solidifies into an intense glowing green stone called 'warpstone' due to its nature to warp anything around it. Think evil radioactive kryptonite.

Skaven, for example, are rats that spend a lot of time around warpstone. They use it as an energy source for their gadgets, creating 'warpfire' (green fire), and similar green evil 'warp-' stuff.
</microlore>

The fact that only Warhammer fans would ever know stuff like that - or what makes white 'apothecary' or blue 'teclis' - makes it confusing to everyone.

I recommend this list.

Blackhawk · Post by **Blackhawk** » Wed Dec 18, 2019 11:57 am

Smoove_B · Post by **Smoove_B** » Wed Dec 18, 2019 12:00 pm

Will do.

Unrelated (but not really) is that I think I need to brush-prime my miniatures. I really don't want to, but if I don't realistically there's very little chance I will be able to rattle-can prime them before March. To that end, I have a buddy that works for a major commercial/residential paint organization and one of the guys we collectively pal around with is one of the their paint scientists/chemists. He suggested I use their premier primer, which I can also get tinted to the tan/khaki color I've come to love for priming.

In poking around a bit online, I can't find a single instance where someone has used this specific paint to prime miniatures. Walls, construction projects, cabinets, railings - absolutely. But board gaming miniatures? Nope. I'm curious to hear if anyone can see a red-flag that I'm not picking up on as to why I shouldn't use this? I already asked if it was possible to figure out how to get this into a sprayer and was told it would work...once. What makes this such a good primer is that it apparently bonds to anything and everything - even glass. So it would destroy the hoses and nozzle in short order.

I also don't have any experience with brush-priming miniatures either - it's always an adventure!

hentzau · Post by **hentzau** » Wed Dec 18, 2019 12:07 pm

I would think that type of primer wouldn't be thin enough for a mini. I would certainly be hesitant to use it on one. I could see it obscuring details like crazy.

You have room for an airbrush? You can get a cheap airbrush for priming duties only.

Isgrimnur · Post by **Isgrimnur** » Wed Dec 18, 2019 12:07 pm

Empyric Eggplant

Blackhawk · Post by **Blackhawk** » Wed Dec 18, 2019 12:09 pm

My personal recommendation is litko. I've bought all of my clear bases from them.

For debasing your miniatures

, I personally use sprue cutters. I cut along each side of the foot, the front, and the back. Then I trim of the excess thickness from the bottom of their feet so they don't have platform shoes. A little trimming with a knife if needed (I switched to surgical scalpels, as they are cheaper, sharper, and more durable than X-acto), and then I 'stand' them on a flat file and move them around enough that they're actually flat on the bottom.

Just make sure you use acrylic cement and not super glue to mount them, or you're likely to get white clouding.

Blackhawk · Post by **Blackhawk** » Wed Dec 18, 2019 12:15 pm

hentzau wrote: ↑Wed Dec 18, 2019 12:07 pm I would think that type of primer wouldn't be thin enough for a mini. I would certainly be hesitant to use it on one. I could see it obscuring details like crazy.

You have room for an airbrush? You can get a cheap airbrush for priming duties only.

That would be my concern as well, and I'd be worried about whatever makes it bond so much reacting with some of the different plastics and either melting them or making them tacky.

And whether you airbrush or brush prime, my recommendation would be the same: Badger Stynylrez primer. It's the best, and doesn't react with anything. They make it in multiple colors, and it comes in large enough bottles, affordably enough, that you could buy a tan and white and mix your own in an empty bottle to get the exact color you want.

Smoove_B · Post by **Smoove_B** » Wed Dec 18, 2019 12:17 pm

hentzau wrote: ↑Wed Dec 18, 2019 12:07 pm I would think that type of primer wouldn't be thin enough for a mini. I would certainly be hesitant to use it on one. I could see it obscuring details like crazy.

You have room for an airbrush? You can get a cheap airbrush for priming duties only.

I was given a sample container and you're right - it's really, really thick and I had similar concerns. I can't water it down, but I was thinking I could be stingy with the application.

I can probably set one up in my garage (which I can also heat). My buddy told me I can use his but I have zero experience. Might be something I need to experiment with in better weather before committing to use indoors in the winter months, but I am generally getting tired of being limited to priming based on temperature/season/humidity.

Blackhawk · Post by **Blackhawk** » Wed Dec 18, 2019 12:50 pm

FWIW, using an airbrush for priming is about the easiest thing in the world. You can learn the mechanics of it in about a minute, and practice enough to be proficient in two more. The main thing you'd have to learn is how to clean it, which is more involved.

I usually brush prime if I have two or three miniatures that I need to prime. I don't break out the airbrush until I have larger numbers that need it at once. Sometimes I'll even prep a few other minis just to get more work out of one cleaning.

Smoove_B · Post by **Smoove_B** » Wed Dec 18, 2019 12:56 pm

I haven't done an official count, but I think conservatively I have 500+ miniatures that need priming.

I do think it's time I look into it. I think I ruled it out for the longest time as a way to paint, but never really considered how helpful it might be for priming.

hentzau · Post by **hentzau** » Wed Dec 18, 2019 1:13 pm

Great for terrain as well. And if you’re interested in trying out zenethal priming, it’s almost essential.

Smoove_B · Post by **Smoove_B** » Wed Dec 18, 2019 1:19 pm

I'm typically benefiting from gift cards and cash for Xmas (because apparently I'm impossible to buy gifts for), so maybe this year I'll invest in an air brush and a cheap compressor.

YellowKing · Post by **YellowKing** » Wed Dec 18, 2019 1:46 pm

I've had really good luck with the Army Painter spray primers. It's really fine-grained and won't obscure detail if applied carefully.

Blackhawk · Post by **Blackhawk** » Wed Dec 18, 2019 1:53 pm

Smoove_B wrote: ↑Wed Dec 18, 2019 1:19 pm I'm typically benefiting from gift cards and cash for Xmas (because apparently I'm impossible to buy gifts for), so maybe this year I'll invest in an air brush and a cheap compressor.

And a kit with a discharge tank/holder, cleaning supplies, etc.

Smoove_B · Post by **Smoove_B** » Wed Dec 18, 2019 3:27 pm

YellowKing wrote: ↑Wed Dec 18, 2019 1:46 pm I've had really good luck with the Army Painter spray primers. It's really fine-grained and won't obscure detail if applied carefully.

I love (and have been using) rattle-can primers now for years. The issue is the weather and how I'm forced indoors now. I don't want to discharge rattle can paint in my garage because of the propellants, so I think I'm going to give airbrushes a whirl.

Blackhawk wrote: ↑Wed Dec 18, 2019 1:53 pmAnd a kit with a discharge tank/holder, cleaning supplies, etc.

I'm learning what I can now from one of my favorite miniature painting Youtubers:

AWS260 · Post by **AWS260** » Wed Dec 18, 2019 6:04 pm

Blackhawk wrote: ↑Wed Dec 18, 2019 12:15 pm And whether you airbrush or brush prime, my recommendation would be the same: Badger Stynylrez primer. It's the best, and doesn't react with anything. They make it in multiple colors, and it comes in large enough bottles, affordably enough, that you could buy a tan and white and mix your own in an empty bottle to get the exact color you want.

Thanks for this recommendation. The only brush-on primer that my FLGS carries is Reaper white, and I've been looking for other options to try. (I don't have an airbrush or an outdoor space, so brush-on is my only option.)

Smoove_B · Post by **Smoove_B** » Wed Dec 18, 2019 7:38 pm

AWS260 wrote: ↑Wed Dec 18, 2019 6:04 pm Thanks for this recommendation. The only brush-on primer that my FLGS carries is Reaper white, and I've been looking for other options to try. (I don't have an airbrush or an outdoor space, so brush-on is my only option.)

FYI on the Wyld Stallyns paint:

IF THIS PRODUCT FREEZES IT MAY BECOME UNUSABLE. DO NOT ORDER THIS PRODUCT IF IT MAY BE EXPOSED TO EXTREME COLD TEMPERATURES DURING DELIVERY. DOING SO IS DONE AT CUSTOMER'S OWN RISK.

Figured I'd mention it.

AWS260 · Post by **AWS260** » Wed Dec 18, 2019 8:15 pm

IF THIS PRODUCT FREEZES IT MAY BECOME UNUSABLE. DO NOT ORDER THIS PRODUCT IF IT MAY BE EXPOSED TO EXTREME COLD TEMPERATURES DURING DELIVERY. DOING SO IS DONE AT CUSTOMER'S OWN RISK.

Keep it out of sunlight.

Avoid contact with water.

And never, ever feed it after midnight.

Isgrimnur · Post by **Isgrimnur** » Wed Dec 18, 2019 8:51 pm

Do not taunt happy fun paint.

AWS260 · Post by **AWS260** » Wed Jan 01, 2020 11:42 pm

This YouTube channel primarily consists of goofy art projects produced for a young audience. My son watches it regularly.

He was very annoyed when a recent episode focused on a 40k space marine, because that's the kind of boring thing that Dad likes to watch. I enjoyed it thoroughly.

Malificent · Post by **Malificent** » Thu Jan 02, 2020 11:05 am

I've just started painting minis in the last month or so and I'm finding it to be a blast and very zen. Forces me to be patient and thoughtful and teaches me that mistakes can be corrected.

As to primer, when I'm brushing it on, I actually end up using the Liquitex Gesso . It glops on thick and you think you're going to lose detail, but after a 24 hr drying time, it basically shrinks down and you don't notice any difference.

https://www.dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Prim ... ylic_Gesso

I'm working on Mansions of Madness minis right now. Here's Finn Edwards, the Bootlegger.

hentzau · Post by **hentzau** » Thu Jan 02, 2020 11:42 am

I just finished assembling the minis for Marvel Crisis Protocol. They look great, but boy, that took a long time. Seemed to me they had a lot of fiddly parts to assemble just to make you assemble something.

For the curious, here's their assembly guide...

AWS260 · Post by **AWS260** » Thu Jan 02, 2020 11:43 am

Malificent wrote: ↑Thu Jan 02, 2020 11:05 am I'm working on Mansions of Madness minis right now. Here's Finn Edwards, the Bootlegger.

That looks great!

hepcat · Post by **hepcat** » Thu Jan 02, 2020 1:04 pm

hentzau wrote: ↑Thu Jan 02, 2020 11:42 am I just finished assembling the minis for Marvel Crisis Protocol. They look great, but boy, that took a long time. Seemed to me they had a lot of fiddly parts to assemble just to make you assemble something.

For the curious, here's their assembly guide...

That's another thing that's making me lean towards selling my unopened copy. It sounds like they needlessly made these figs hard to assemble. I just don't need that kind of aggravation.

hentzau · Post by **hentzau** » Thu Jan 02, 2020 1:08 pm

hepcat wrote: ↑Thu Jan 02, 2020 1:04 pm
hentzau wrote: ↑Thu Jan 02, 2020 11:42 am I just finished assembling the minis for Marvel Crisis Protocol. They look great, but boy, that took a long time. Seemed to me they had a lot of fiddly parts to assemble just to make you assemble something.

For the curious, here's their assembly guide...
That's another thing that's making me lean towards selling my unopened copy. It sounds like they needlessly made these figs hard to assemble. I just don't need that kind of aggravation.

I think full assembly time for all of the minis was about 6 hours. I used a good plastic cement on them, not superglue.

The minis look great once together. But I was having Shadows of Brimstone flashbacks doing it.

Smoove_B · Post by **Smoove_B** » Thu Jan 02, 2020 1:11 pm

Some of the figures are really, really easy to assemble but there are a few that are a giant pain, yes. You absolutely need model cement (not super glue) to assemble them (IMHO) as the parts need to "melt" together in same cases. Very challenging in parts and not what I'd consider an intro kit for someone that's new to modeling.

That being said, they look great when assembled and they're slightly larger than what I'm used to. I picked up my set primarily to paint and ideally play, but just for the models (and scatter terrain) it might be worth it. The rules for the game are very low key and it seems like it would play quick (and in a relatively small area).

But if you're not inspired by the models or the idea of assembly and painting, then I'd think this has little value. I also justified it by thinking I'd use the minis as "tokens" for my Marvels Champions game (in the same way I use the Mansions of Madness minis while playing the Arkham LCG). YMMV.

EDIT: Bamm'd by Hentzau, first of the year. Congrats.

hepcat · Post by **hepcat** » Thu Jan 02, 2020 2:33 pm

I just got about a baker's dozen contrast paints, new brushes and a can of contrast primer (wrathbone white i think it's called) using some amazon gift cards I got for Christmas. Now it's time to try out this new paint and see if i can finally get all my mins table ready, dagnabit.

Malificent · Post by **Malificent** » Thu Jan 02, 2020 3:45 pm

hepcat wrote: ↑Thu Jan 02, 2020 2:33 pm I just got about a baker's dozen contrast paints, new brushes and a can of contrast primer (wrathbone white i think it's called) using some amazon gift cards I got for Christmas. Now it's time to try out this new paint and see if i can finally get all my mins table ready, dagnabit.

I would love to hear a report on how the contrast paints work out...

hepcat · Post by **hepcat** » Thu Jan 02, 2020 3:52 pm

I'll hopefully get a chance to try them out this weekend...while I'm recovering from yet another cold

hentzau · Post by **hentzau** » Thu Jan 02, 2020 4:09 pm

Malificent wrote: ↑Thu Jan 02, 2020 3:45 pm
hepcat wrote: ↑Thu Jan 02, 2020 2:33 pm I just got about a baker's dozen contrast paints, new brushes and a can of contrast primer (wrathbone white i think it's called) using some amazon gift cards I got for Christmas. Now it's time to try out this new paint and see if i can finally get all my mins table ready, dagnabit.
I would love to hear a report on how the contrast paints work out...

Jump back to about page 29, I have about a dozen posts showing contrast paints.

Malificent · Post by **Malificent** » Thu Jan 02, 2020 4:18 pm

hentzau wrote: ↑Thu Jan 02, 2020 4:09 pm
Malificent wrote: ↑Thu Jan 02, 2020 3:45 pm
hepcat wrote: ↑Thu Jan 02, 2020 2:33 pm I just got about a baker's dozen contrast paints, new brushes and a can of contrast primer (wrathbone white i think it's called) using some amazon gift cards I got for Christmas. Now it's time to try out this new paint and see if i can finally get all my mins table ready, dagnabit.
I would love to hear a report on how the contrast paints work out...
Jump back to about page 29, I have about a dozen posts showing contrast paints.

Thanks! The curse of the skimmer strikes again.

Those look great and I feel like I have approximately {Dr. Evil}1 million{/Dr.Evil} minis to paint, but I'm also in an early learning phase. Not sure whether I should "shortcut" yet or if I do want to, which minis are the right ones. Also, I've only spent my budget and then some buying paints and brushes. Maybe I should use those before I start buying something else.